Smells Like Nostalgia

German author Patrick Süskind wrote, “Odors have a power of persuasion stronger than that of words, appearances, emotions, or will. The persuasive power of an odor cannot be fended off, it enters into us like breath into our lungs, it fills us up, imbues us totally.”

If we say perfumery is an art, then the perfumer is a skilled olfactive artist who combines science, creativity, art, and a dash of magic to create beautiful fragrances that evoke specific emotions and inspiring experiences.

Fragrances are all about vintage these days – with brands repackaging classic fragrances and infusing iconic scents into new creations. Fragrance fans have recently gone viral and it all began with a discussion started by influencer Benonwine who asked his followers to name a perfume or aftershave that takes them right back to their youth.

We speak with IFF’s vice president perfumer, Daniel Li, based in our Singapore Innovation Center. "The retro trend is one of the key global trends we have observed over the years in the perfumery industry. Classic fragrances created decades ago are still sold all over the world and loved by many today,” he said.

Read on and who knows, you might want to give them a try or whiff again as your signature scent this time!

Recently, many international brands are reinventing and launching vintage perfumes. What do you think are the reasons behind the retro trend?

We always say fashion comes in cycles, so do trends for perfumes. The world is evolving at a fast pace that sometimes we feel nostalgic about our childhood. In the Chinese market, we have witnessed consumers' appreciation for the scent of 'White Rabbit'─ a classic milk candy, and an increasing popularity of niche fragrances that have shown to evoke nostalgia and offer more emotional value.

Little is known about how smell is connected to the limbic system of the human brain, the part with the deepest emotions. How can we emotionally connect with customers through the power of scent?

Consumers around the world are turning to fragrance for added emotional benefits. With IFF's Science of Wellness program, we can now combine neuroscience and data science to promote science-based emotional, cognitive, physical, and holistic health benefits associated with scents. By focusing on one of these benefits, perfumers can create a scent that fully unleash its potential. Retro scents tap into an emotional, memory-loaded human realm, one which can be a source of comfort and wellness. Some scents evoke memories from childhood or the past, some evoke common memories that happen to be more timeless.

What are some of the popular top, middle and base notes in a vintage perfume?

There is no fixed formula for the top, middle or base notes when creating vintage perfumes. Retro trendy scents either correspond to a certain retro perfume structure, such as citrus cologne or chypre, or to a specific concept or moment.

We’re also witnessing a trend towards less gender-focused fragrances. A growing number of consumers today prefer genderless fragrances where floral notes ─ which are more feminine ─ are combined with the more masculine aromatics in one perfume. One perfect example is YSL Libre Le Parfum. An IFF creation, it’s a ground-breaking fougère floral that combines with aromatic lavender note ─ often used in fougère masculine fragrances ─ into a feminine floral structure.

Is the retro trend gaining popularity among a specific generation?

I don’t think vintage perfume is exclusive to any generation. Retro trends can attract across generations, especially those who are interested in retro fashion. These groups of consumers are happy to relive a certain memory from their past or choose a unique fragrance that expresses their personality. For the younger generation, they yearn to experience the era that they never had the opportunity to. I’d say millennials or Gen Z are the target audience for vintage fragrances.

The trend for retro fragrances may last for a long time. As the market continues to grow and with improved technology, we may miss the past even more. There are so many iconic perfume creations and many memories to be revisited with the help of fragrance. This is also the infiniteness of the perfumery world.

Besides YSL Libre Le Parfum, what other classic vintage fragrances have IFF perfumers created?

L'Interdit by Givenchy was originally created in 1957 as an homage to Audrey Hepburn by Hubert de Givenchy. The brand asked our perfumers Anne Flipo, Dominique Ropion and Fanny Bal to create a new fragrance, which would combine a tribute to the original and affirm a resolutely modern femininity, with notes of orange blossom, jasmine and patchouli.

Both Polo Blue by Ralph Lauren (launched in 2002, created by IFF Master Perfumer Carlos Benaïm) and Beautiful by Estee Lauder, a rich and luxurious scent which reminds one of a thousand flowers (launched in 1982, and created by legendary ex-IFF perfumers Sophia Grojsman with Bernard Chant and Max Gavarry, and current IFF Master Perfumer Carlos Benaïm, are still many people’s beloved scent.

Launched in 2012, La Vie Est Belle by Lancôme ─ composed by IFF Master Perfumers Anne Flipo and Dominique Ropion with Olivier Polge, Chanel’s in house perfumer ─ is a great success in the U.S and European markets for more than a decade.

Daniel has recently been interviewed by Lianhe Zaobao, Singapore’s largest Chinese newspaper. Click here to read his interview in Chinese.